Author: Jérémy Campy, founder of Do You Speak Wine
While wine is one of the world’s most ancient and globalized products, its journey from vineyard to glass is still riddled with hidden tolls, bureaucratic mazes and policy blind spots. From opaque tariffs to misleading labels, the global wine trade faces obstacles that are often unknown to the public, but are increasingly costly to producers. Jérémy Campy, editor-in-chief of Voice of the Industry, spoke with Dr. Jacques-Olivier Pesme, executive director of the Wine Origins Alliance (WOA), about the current trade situation and his outlook for the future.
Jérémy Campy :Let’s start with the basics. What exactly are trade barriers in the wine world — and why should we care?
Jacques-Olivier Pesme : The first and most visible type of trade barrier is tariffs, which are taxes imposed on imported goods and are usually expressed as a percentage of the product’s declared value.
Then there are non-tariff measures (NTMs), which are far more numerous; there are currently more than 3,000 NTMs that apply specifically to wine exports. These include labeling requirements, phytosanitary regulations, packaging rules, sales channel restrictions, import quotas and so on. They may be technical, regulatory, or administrative, but all create friction in trade and reduce the ability of consumers to access diverse, authentic wines.
Let’s talk about those invisible barriers and why this kind of red tape can be more difficult for wine exporters to manage.
NTMs evolve constantly, hundreds of new measures are introduced every year, and they are rarely harmonized between markets, except for integrated markets such as the EU. Unlike tariffs, which are straightforward and easy to calculate, NTMs are often complex, hard to identify, vary widely from one country to another, and are sometimes even contradictory. This complexity makes trade inefficient and adds cost, which ultimately affects the consumer.
Most wine exporters are micro, small, and medium-sized businesses (MSMEs), and navigating this regulatory jungle alone is simply not feasible. This is why the Wine Origins Alliance has begun collaborative work with the World Trade Organization (WTO), especially within its MSMEs Working Group. Progress is underway, and we’re committed to keeping it moving.
In terms of tariffs, which countries or regions are currently the most problematic and how are they affecting producers?
The situation is constantly evolving, and of course will depend on where the producers are located as well. But, in general, countries where wine is not widely consumed — due to cultural or religious reasons — tend to apply the highest import tariffs. That’s the case in many parts of Asia, the Middle East, Africa and some Latin American markets. Yet trade negotiations can have a positive impact on this.
What poses the greatest challenge to producers are sudden tariff increases, especially those triggered by political tensions. These shocks can seriously affect profitability and viability of operations, especially for small and medium-sized producers with limited ability to absorb such losses.
But these aren’t just producer problems; how do trade barriers ripple through the supply chain and affect the consumer experience?
High tariffs result in higher shelf prices as costs are passed along. A wine that might retail for $15 in its domestic market can end up costing $28 or more abroad, putting it out of reach for many consumers. And NTMs, such as excessive labeling requirements or mandatory local bottling rules, also often discourage small producers from entering certain markets altogether, leading to reduced consumer choice. Distribution systems can also play a limiting role. All of this reduces product diversity, inflates costs, and restricts the global availability of high-quality wines.
The WOA was formed in 2005, and you became its executive director in 2024. How has your mission changed in response to today’s trade environment?
The Wine Origins Alliance’s founding mission was to educate consumers and policymakers about the importance of origin in winemaking. Since the late 2010s, and especially following the COVID-19 pandemic, the scope of our work has expanded considerably to reflect other trade factors as well, including tariffs and NTMs.
Today, with 34 member regions representing over 100,000 wineries and more than $8 billion in exports, the Alliance is now in a unique position to speak on behalf of the industry and lead global discussions on wine trade barriers. Our coalition continues to expand — with several new regions joining the Alliance in 2025 — recognizing the importance of collective action in defending both wine place name protection and market access.
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Why are wine place names still under threat, and how are consumers being misled?
Origin matters. According to recent consumer research, 79% of wine buyers say that the region of origin is an important factor in their purchasing decisions, and nearly 90% expect that if a region name is on a bottle of wine, it truly comes from that region. With over 3 billion cases of wine produced globally every year, having clear and trustworthy labeling is more important than ever.
Place names carry a wine’s identity. They reflect its history, culture, and quality expectations. When labels misuse or imitate those names, they don’t just deceive consumers, they also undermine the work and investments of legitimate producers from those regions. Protecting the truth of origin isn’t just a legal issue, it’s about transparency, traceability, consumer rights and fair competition in a global marketplace.
Amid this complex landscape where are we seeing real progress or good faith negotiations?
There are several success stories worth highlighting. The 2006 U.S.–EU Wine Accord, along with subsequent legislation passed by the U.S. Congress recognizing European wine place names, was a landmark in regulatory cooperation and mutual recognition. More recently, EU and other countries from South America trade agreements with countries like Australia, Japan, South Korea and Mexico have led to meaningful tariff reductions and significantly improved market access for wine exporters. These are major wins for both wine regions and consumers.
To put things in perspective: in the 1950s, the average global tariff on wine between major producing countries was around 50% ad valorem. Today, that figure has dropped below 8%, and when preferential trade agreements are factored in, the average applied rate is closer to 4%. This is one reason why nearly half of the world’s wine production is now traded internationally.
We’ve demonstrated that progress is possible, but it requires long-term commitment, coordination and collective effort, along with sustained engagement at both the political and industry levels.
Credit: Jacques-Olivier Pesme at the OIV Vine and Wine World Trade Forum ©Jacques-Olivier
If you had one message to deliver to trade negotiators today, what would it be?
The wine industry is broadly unified on trade issues and committed to making meaningful progress. The Wine Origins Alliance brings together some of the world’s leading wine regions, from long-established appellations to dynamic emerging producers, to share knowledge, align strategies and advocate for fair, transparent, and open trade with a unified voice. There is a strong collective commitment among our members, to defend producers’ interests, protect consumers’ rights, and ensure that origin remains a pillar of trust in the global wine market. And that’s exactly where meaningful, lasting change begins.
Jeremy Campy: founder Do you Speak Wine
With over 20 years of experience in digital media, editorial content and brand communication, Jérémy Campy has built a career at the crossroads of journalism, strategy and digital innovation. His professional journey naturally led him to the wine and spirits industry, where he now combines expertise and personal passion. He is the founder of Do You Speak Wine, a communications studio dedicated to helping wine producers, estates and institutions shape their voice and visibility. He also serves as editor-in-chief of Voice of the Industry, the editorial magazine published by Vinexposium.
About Dr Jacques-Olivier Pesme
With more than 20 years of experience leading academic and institutional organizations in Europe, America and Oceania, Dr. Jacques-Olivier Pesme is one of the world’s foremost experts on wine region competitiveness, trade, strategy and advises key leaders and policymakers from both the public and private sector. In March 2024, he was appointed executive director of the Wine Origins Alliance, an international organization based in Washington, DC. The Alliance defends the interests of the world’s principal wine regions, focusing on protection and the removal of trade barriers.
